Last Updated on February 4, 2025 by mulamagnet1

Picture this: I’m standing on Ocean Avenue in Carmel, California, completely lost – which, if you know me, is about as surprising as finding sand on a beach. The fog’s rolling in like nature’s own smoke machine, and I’m trying to find my way to what’s supposed to be the most charming cottage in Carmel ca. The twist? Every building looks like it belongs in a fairy tale, and street numbers are apparently considered optional in this town. Welcome to Carmel-by-the-Sea, where getting lost might just be the best thing that happens to you.

 

The Journey to Carmel: More Than Just Point A to B

NOTE:  Click on the square in the upper right corner of the map to adjust the size.

Let me tell you about getting to Carmel, because it’s not just about the destination – though trust me, we’ll get to that fairy tale town soon enough. First things first: you’ve got options, and like that time I tried to order coffee in Istanbul, some are more straightforward than others.

Flying In: The Sky-High Route

Your best bet is flying into Monterey Regional Airport (MRY), just a stone’s throw from Carmel. Now, when I say “stone’s throw,” I mean about 15 minutes by car, not like that time in Croatia when my host said the beach was a “short walk” and three hours later I was still trudging along the coastline.

But here’s a travel hack from someone who’s learned it the hard way: while Monterey’s airport is convenient, flights can be pricier than a truffle-infused anything. Consider flying into San Francisco International (SFO) or San Jose International (SJC). The drive from either is two to three hours depending on traffic, but you’ll save enough cash to splurge on that casual dinner at La Bicyclette (more on that later).

The Legendary Highway 1

If you’re coming from San Francisco or San Jose, you’ve got two options: the practical route or the postcard route. The practical route is Highway 101, which is fine if you’re the kind of person who eats pizza with a knife and fork. But the postcard route? That’s Highway 1, and my friends, this is where the magic happens.

Quick side story: Last spring, I was driving Highway 1 when I spotted what I thought was a whale breach. I pulled over so fast I nearly gave my passenger whiplash. Turned out to be a particularly ambitious seagull, but the viewpoint I stopped at ended up being the highlight of the trip. Sometimes the best moments come from mistaking birds for cetaceans.

The drive along Highway 1 from San Francisco to Carmel is like Mother Nature’s greatest hits album. You’ll pass through Half Moon Bay (grab a coffee at Half Moon Bay Coffee Company), cruise by Santa Cruz (where I once tried surfing and mainly succeeded at drinking seawater), and wind your way through some of the most dramatic coastline this side of the Ring of Kerry.

Where to Rest Your Head: Carmel’s Coziest Corners

Luxury Lodging: 4 Star Hotels Carmel

The L’Auberge Carmel is the kind of place where you feel underdressed even in your best outfit. This Relais & Châteaux property is housed in a building from 1929, and staying here is like being transported to a European village, except the staff actually smiles at you. Rooms start at around $500 per night, but the service makes you feel like you’ve accidentally wandered into someone else’s “lifestyle of the rich and famous” episode.

I once showed up here covered in dust after hiking Point Lobos, and the doorman didn’t even flinch – though I swear I saw him discreetly call housekeeping to follow my trail through the lobby.

The Adobe Hotel Carmel: History with a Side of Comfort

Speaking of historic properties, the Adobe Hotel Carmel is like that friend who’s aged incredibly well. Originally built in 1929 (apparently a good year for Carmel architecture), it’s right in the heart of downtown. The rooms have fireplaces, which trust me, you’ll appreciate when that coastal fog rolls in and turns a summer evening into what feels like a Scottish autumn.

Cottages of Carmel: Your Home Away from Home

Now, if you really want to do Carmel right, rent one of the cottages. The Cottages of Carmel Carmel CA are scattered throughout town like fairy houses in an enchanted forest. My personal favorite is Tuck Box Cottage, which looks like something Tolkien designed after a particularly vivid dream.

B and B in Carmel: The Local Experience

For those who prefer their lodging with a side of local insight (and possibly too much information about your host’s grandchildren), Carmel’s B&Bs are a treasure trove. The Carriage House Inn is my go-to recommendation. The breakfast here isn’t just a meal; it’s an event. The owner, Martha, makes these lemon ricotta pancakes that I’m pretty sure are actually clouds that have been blessed by culinary angels.

A Day in Carmel: The Insider’s Guide

Here’s where I’m going to tell you something that might sound sacrilegious: don’t plan too much. Carmel is like that friend who gets better the more you let them just be themselves. Sure, there are must-dos:

• Ocean Avenue shopping (where even window shopping feels luxurious)
• Carmel Beach sunset (bring a jacket, trust me)
• Mission San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo (because history doesn’t always have to be boring)
• Point Lobos State Natural Reserve (where I once saw a sea otter doing backstroke while eating lunch)

But the real magic happens in the unplanned moments. Like that time I got lost looking for Carmel Plaza and ended up discovering a secret garden courtyard where a local artist was painting. Or when I ducked into a wine tasting room to escape the rain and ended up learning about viticulture from a former Silicon Valley engineer who’d traded coding for Cabernet.

The Carmel to Monterey Connection

Here’s a tip that took me three visits to figure out: don’t think of Carmel and Monterey as separate destinations. They’re more like siblings who pretend to be completely different but actually share a lot of DNA. The drive between them is about 10 minutes, and you can easily spend time in both.

Fun fact: I once tried to walk from Carmel to Monterey along the beach, forgetting about little things like tides and private property. Let’s just say it involved some creative scrambling and a very patient Uber driver.

Hidden Gems and Local Secrets

After 20 years of wandering, I’ve learned that the best travel advice often comes from the most unexpected sources. Like the time I got the best restaurant recommendation in Carmel from a gas station attendant in Big Sur. “Try La Balena,” he said, “but don’t tell them Tommy sent you. They still haven’t forgiven me for the Christmas party incident of 2019.”

The Morning Ritual

Start your day at Carmel Belle, where the coffee is strong and the morning buns are what I imagine clouds taste like. The locals here don’t just grab and go – they linger, chat, and sometimes share tips about secret hiking trails or upcoming art shows.

The Afternoon Adventure

Take the 17-Mile Drive, but here’s the twist: do it backward. Most people start from Pacific Grove, but if you begin from the Carmel gate, you’ll hit all the famous spots when the tour buses are elsewhere. Just don’t be like me and forget that it’s actually a toll road. Trying to charm your way through the gate with nothing but a winning smile and an expired European train pass doesn’t work (yes, I tried).  Note, however, that by doing the drive in reverse may have less traffic, if may not provide the intended experience or views

Final Thoughts: The Soul of Carmel

What makes Carmel special isn’t just the stunning coastline or the fairy-tale architecture – it’s the way the place makes you feel like you’ve stumbled into a story where you’re the main character. Whether you’re staying in a luxury hotel or a cozy B&B, whether you drove up Highway 1 or flew into Monterey, you’ll find that Carmel has a way of making you slow down, look around, and remember why we travel in the first place.

And if you do get lost on those unmarked streets? Well, consider it part of the adventure. After all, some of the best stories start with “I had no idea where I was…”