Last Updated on August 8, 2025 by Master of Detours

I. Introduction

In May 2025, I flew from California to Porto, Portugal, with a singular purpose: to meet up with my 35-year-old son, David, and walk part of the Portuguese El Camino together. Not the entire route from Lisbon—we didn’t have the time (or knees in my case) for that—but enough to soak in the spirit of pilgrimage, adventure, and father-son bonding.  David is an avid hiker and traveler.  He was up for whatever I was up for. So, we decided to walk the part of the Portuguese Camino from the border between Portugal and Spain to Santiago de Compostela.

Jet lag didn’t stand a chance against my strategy (see my linked post for that), and after a couple of days exploring Porto’s old-world charm and scenic riverfront, we were ready. We visited the main Porto cathedral to collect our pilgrim passports and each picked up a scallop shell—the iconic symbol of El Camino pilgrims. Our passport would be stamped at least twice per day to prove our progress to eventually qualify us for our certificate of completion once we reached Santiago de Compostela.

I wasn’t certain how far I’d be able to go. I am 78.  I am healthy, but not exactly in peak condition, and had only prepared by walking with a weighted vest when I took my dog, Wally, out for his daily morning adventure…generally, about a one-mile stroll.  Still, I had my trusty Osprey backpack (a Facebook Marketplace bargain!) packed as lightly as possible. My goal was to walk between one and four days, not for the glory, but for the experience.  After the first day, I thought, “Well, that was easy enough, let’s do another”.  Then, after the second day, I thought “I can do four.”  And, after the third day, I thought “Aaah! No problem, I can do the whole thing.”  So, I did, and here’s my story.

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II. Porto, Portugal

David and I spent two full days in Porto—reconnecting, sightseeing, and soaking in the vibe of a truly beautiful city. We wandered along the Douro River, explored cobblestone alleys, and sampled local food and wine. It felt like the perfect prelude to the journey ahead.  We stayed at a comfy Airbnb called Cedofeita Village, reasonably close to most everywhere, though keep in mind that Porto is pretty hilly.

At the Porto Cathedral, we picked up our Camino passports and scallop shells, small symbolic tokens of the pilgrimage ahead. We re-checked our packing lists, made last-minute gear adjustments, and stocked up tinned mussels and cod from a local store.

Originally planning to take a train to Valença (pronounced val-len-sah), we discovered that Portuguese railway workers were on strike. Fortunately, David found a workaround. Instead, we booked a Bolt (similar to Uber) to the bus station and caught a bus (reserved online) to Valença alongside several fellow pilgrims bound for the same destination.

III. Porto to Valença

Our bus ride to Valença was filled with anticipation and camaraderie. We met a father-grandson pair from Canada and a spirited solo traveler named Barbara, also from Canada—80 years old and on her third Camino. Upon arrival, everyone scattered to their respective lodgings.

Ours was a modest “albergue” (i.e., pronounced al-ber-gay, Spanish for pilgrim’s hostel) on the Portuguese side.  Albergue Brasão, nothing fancy, but clean, comfortable, and linked here.  We stopped at a market and stocked up on bread, cheese, and protein bars for the trail.  We ran into our newfound Canadian friends days later.  It is quite common to run into the same people on the Camino as you make your way to Santiago.

The rhythm of the Camino naturally brings people together, even after days apart. Conversations picked up right where they left off, as if no time had passed. There’s a quiet joy in recognizing a familiar face among the stream of strangers. Each reunion felt like a small victory, a shared reminder that none of us were walking entirely alone.

 

IV. Walking El Camino Portugues

Day 1: Valença to Tui to O Porriño – The next morning, we set off around 9 a.m., walking through Valença’s walled medieval fortress. The cobblestone streets led us through the heart of the old town, where I took my first tumble in the first hour of my first day on the Camino.  I couldn’t make this up!  A misstep off a low curb sent me falling forward in slow motion.  Twisting in mid-air, I landed on my backpack cushioning the blow. I was more embarrassed than injured. A group of Australian women rushed to my aid, certain I’d broken something.  Thankfully, that was my first and last fall on the Camino.

Not even a scratch!  Dusting off my pride, David and I continued on. A short while later, we crossed the bridge over the Minho River—no border control, barely a sign—into the enchanting medieval Spanish town of Tui. The scenery shifted subtly, the language changed, and just like that, we were pilgrims (“peregrinos” in Spanish) in Spain.

Speaking of language, I thought people in Spain would be speaking Spanish.  But, not so much.  You see, we had crossed into the Spanish province of Galicia, which occupies the entire Northwest corner of Spain.  The main language in Galicia is not Spanish.  It’s Galician.  Galician is a distinct language that to me appeared to be more similar to Portuguese than Spanish.  However, though almost everything was written in Galician, people understood my limited Spanish without any problem.

We walked through Tui stopping for a makeshift brunch at a concrete picnic table.  A baguette. some cheese, sausage, and a tin of mussels we had gotten in Porto…delicious! The perfect lunch. We had a similar lunch each day and loved it.

Then we continued onward through the beautiful rolling countryside to the small town of  O Porriño and the albergue we had booked the night before called Alojamiento Camino Portugues.  We always booked a place the day before just so we would not have to be hunting for a something when we arrived.

The albergue in O Porriño was more commercial than the one in Valença, but it was perfectly adequate.  That is, it had hot showers and bunk beds with clean sheets and blankets.  Like most albergues, this one was co-ed.  We found a small cafe for dinner and then returned and crashed.

What I had in my mind for the Camino was that at the albergues we would have a nice communal meal and swap stories with other travelers.  That didn’t happen much.  After walking for 7 or 8 hours each day, the priority was shower, food, and rest.  Chit-chatting with fellow pilgrims was a distant fourth.  It was easiest to have conversations with other travelers during brief stops on our daily walks.

Day 2: O Porriño to Redondela – Deepening conversations and changing scenery. From O Porriño to Redondela on the Portuguese El Camino we passed through lush landscapes and charming towns. A 16-kilometer blend of natural beauty and cultural insights. As we left O Porriño, the path wound through serene forests dotted with eucalyptus trees with their fresh, fragrant ambiance. Along the way, we enjoyed the soothing sounds of nature, punctuated by the distant chatter of fellow walkers.

We wandered through picturesque villages where a quick snack could be found with a little searching. One highlight was the beautiful view of the Vigo estuary we approached Redondela, a rewarding backdrop. Colorful homes and quaint streets greeted us, adding to the charm of this town, making the trek both fulfilling and memorable.

 

 

Day 3: Redondela to Pontevedra – Challenges emerge, but spirits stay high.  We ran into the Australian women again and walked with them for a bit.  The Camino is well marked with yellow arrows and posts with the iconic scallop shell.  It is hard to miss a turn, but we did.  After about a kilometer we realized our mistake, the Australians turned back.

But instead of turning around, David and I, using GPS, took a detour through a forest on a seldom-used muddy track.  All to ourselves.  So quiet and calm.  It was great.  Flowers everywhere. It was springtime. Beautiful! After an hour or so, we crossed back onto the Portugues Camino again.

Eventually, we arrived in Pontevedra, an attractive seaside town on the west coast of Spain.  Our albergue (more of a guest room with its own entrance) looking down on the bay, was a bit off the track , but was spacious and comfortable with a helpful host.

Day 4: Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis – The walk from Pontevedra to Caldas de Reis turned out to be one of our favorite stretches, even though it rained most of the day. The trail took us through beautiful forests and over rolling hills that were just challenging enough to make it interesting without wearing us out completely.

What really made the day special was how friendly everyone was. Local residents and other pilgrims would call out “Buen Camino!” as we passed (meaning “Good Pilgrim’s Journey”), something we’d grown used to hearing on our journey. We walked through several small villages where people would smile and wave, making us feel welcome despite the gloomy weather.

We were pretty much resigned to our legs and feet being wet that whole day.  Our plastic ponchos did a great job of protecting us otherwise. The rain wasn’t too bad most of the time, but then it would suddenly come down like someone turned on a shower full blast. Got lucky once when it really started pouring – we’d just come up this hill and found this makeshift shelter some locals had set up. Perfect timing. They were selling sandwiches and drinks, and we sat on these hay bales, just watching the rain and catching our breath.

Along the way we met and chatted with James.  James used to live in California.  He was Vietnamese and now owns and runs a chicken ranch in Texas, of all places. Small world, right?

Thank god I brought my walking sticks. Between the slick cobblestones and all that squishy mud, they saved my butt more than once. Came in handy too when we had to hop over these little streams that kept crossing the trail.

When we could see Caldas de Reis up ahead, we both started moving faster without saying anything. We were soaked through and beat. All we could think about was getting into those hot springs and finally warming up.

V. Day 5: Rest Day Reflections in Caldas de Reis

After walking all day, we ended up at our hotel – the Balneario Acuña. Not exactly five-star fancy. But, it had thermal spas. The lobby smelled kinda musty, like old books and mineral water.

Walking around across the river, we found this tiny hot spring by the cathedral. Seriously tiny. Made for foot soaking, and holy crap was it hot! Had to pull them out every few seconds at first. The bottom was slimy. David slipped, but no broken bones.  Starving by then, we stumbled onto this restaurant… um, can’t remember the name now. But their burgers! Not what you’d expect in northern Spain, right?

Next day was basically heaven. Slept late – I mean, why not?  Had to do laundry though. You can only wear sweaty socks so many times.

The best part? Just lounging in those outdoor thermal pools at our hotel. Met a woman from Madrid who was walking the Camino with her friends. She was very interested about how life was in the U.S.  David and I sat there getting wrinkly for hours, just talking with whoever floated by.

Weird how sometimes the best moments aren’t the ones you plan. Just sitting there in hot water soaking it all in, literally… yeah, that was pretty good.  Those couple of days in Caldas de Reis were special. When you’re walking the Camino, you get caught up in making miles. Sometimes you need to slow down and just be there.

VI. More Walking El Camino

Day 6: Caldas de Reis to Valga (a way stop mid-way to Padrón) – Normally you would go all the way to Padrón), but if we did that then the last leg from Padrón) to Santiago would be long, about 25 km.  So, we decided to have a short walk of 12 km, a normal walk the next day, and then a short walk of 15 km to Santiago on the last day. This way we wouldn’t be dead tired when we arrived.

Anyway, the walk was relatively flat and uneventful. Our albergue in the miniscule village of Valga  was different (Albergue de Peregrinos de O Pino). Up until then, we had stayed in private albergues.  This was a municipal albergue. It was much cheaper than the others that usually cost 20-30 euros each.  This one was 10 euros. And you get what you pay for. It was clean, but it was bare bones. We got a bottom sheet for our beds and that was it. So, we had to sleep in our clothes (extra clothes actually) to stay warm.

Plus the albergue was full and there were a couple snorers.  Everyone chuckled about it in the morning. A bit funny looking back on it, but not recommended. We had breakfast at a nearby truck stop and then got on our way.

Day 7: Valga to A Escravitude” (a way stop past the larger town of Padrón) – Pastoral landscapes, historical resonance. Our albergue in A Escravitude was called Villa Vieira. It was the nicest albergue we found on the Portugues Camino, not that the others were bad.  It had a back yard, a pool, a sun deck, and pleasant common area.  And, the host was very friendly. We had an ordinary meal at a local restaurant and went to bed early.

Day 8: A Escravitude to Santiago – Anticipation builds, arrival with pride and emotion.  Yeah, we actually were going to complete the Camino.  Far out!  We made our way through the suburban countryside and slowly became more urbanized as we approached toward the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela.

As we got close, the city went from contemporary modern to the old medieval buildings that surround the area around the cathedral.  My guess is that most date from the 1500-1600s or so.

We checked into the Albergue SP 55 located in the old part of Santiago a few blocks from the cathedral.  It was well kept and efficient.

VII. Santiago de Compostela

Getting to Santiago was wild. The plaza in front of the cathedral was full. Pilgrims everywhere. Some looked worn out and dirty like us, others freshly showered, but everyone had that same goofy grin. You could tell we’d all just finished something big.

First thing we had to do was get our certificates. Funny how important that piece of paper felt after all those miles. Had to dig through my backpack to find our passports with all the stamps we’d collected.

Then we waited forever to get into the Pilgrims’ Mass. Neither of us are church people, but man… that cathedral. It’s massive. Makes you feel tiny standing there.

The whole service was in Latin. The place smelled like incense. Everyone was whispering. It made me think of all the other people who’d stood in that exact spot over hundreds of years.

Met this fellow from the U.S. He did the Camino Frances in 35 days.  Impressive.  I am confident I could do another Camino, even the almost 500 mile Camino Frances, if I really wanted to, but at a leisurely pace.

VIII. Final Reflections

How the Camino Was More Than Just a Walk

Nine years into retirement and I was getting antsy. You can only play so much golf, right? I needed something different – maybe even a little crazy. The Portugues Camino seemed perfect.  Funny thing is, lots of people walk it because it ends at the Cathedral of Saint James – it’s this whole religious pilgrimage thing. But that wasn’t my deal. I just wanted to see if I could do it. Met all kinds of people on the trail – some soul-searching, some escaping their routine, many just walking. This German guy told me he was walking because his wife dared him to. Everyone’s got their own reason for being there.

Here’s my rough guess about who was on the Portugues Camino with us:  40% were Spaniards, about 40% were other Europeans, and about 20% were Americans, Canadians, Asians, and people from other parts of the world.  There were few of school age  (they were in school), roughly 30% under 30, 40% in their 30s and 40s and 30% over 50.  There were many single male and female travelers and many groups. It surely changes during the year, but that was my experience walking in spring.

Insights on Family, Aging, and Being Present

Originally, my wife and I had planned this trip together, but a health issue prevented her from coming. At 78, I realized that if I didn’t seize the moment, I might never have the chance again. Acknowledging the limitations that come with age is sobering, but I know that postponing what truly matters can be risky.

The Power of Slow Travel

David and I have done some wild trips together over the years. Volunteered on a farm in Costa Rica for a month tending to avocado trees and such, got deep into Guatemala and Belize another time. Good memories, all of them. But I’m 78 now, and we both knew this Camino thing might be our last big adventure together. Not that we talked about it much – just kind of hung there in the background, you know.

Walking for days gives you a different kind of time together. Not like rushing through tourist spots or sitting on beaches. You talk about real stuff. Sometimes you don’t talk at all. Just walk. Meant more than I expected, actually.

A Gentle Encouragement for Others

If you’re considering walking the Camino, go for it! All it takes is intention. Don’t let the idea of crowds deter you; while the Camino Frances and Portugues Camino are popular, they’re not overly crowded, especially outside the summer months. There are alternate routes, and countless other Caminos to choose from.

Check out the map of El Camino routes. Pick a route and create unforgettable memories! Remember, it’s not a race. Walk at your own pace—rest when needed, then continue. You will get there and have many stories to tell.

If you tire of carrying your backpack, use a delivery service that will transport it for you from your albergue or hotel to the one at your next stop for just 10 euros. It’s simple.  You just reserve online the night before.  However, if you are traveling a lesser Camino, the delivery service may not be available.

 

If you do choose to do the Camino, the time of year is one of the most important things to think about. It can completely shape the experience.

We went in the spring, and it turned out to be just right. The temperatures stayed mild, not too hot during the day, and the evenings were cool and refreshing. There was a little rain here and there, but never enough to slow us down.

The trail wasn’t crowded either, which gave the whole journey a more personal, peaceful feel. And the flowers were everywhere. Wildflowers lined the paths, filled open fields, and popped up in the most unexpected places. The scenery felt vibrant and alive.

I’ve heard fall has its own kind of beauty, with golds and reds replacing the greens and blooms. The air would be cooler, the pace a little quieter.  Summer/winter would be better left to the hardier folks who don’t mind the sun or the cold.

What to Bring on Your Camino

Along with the right gear, bring an open mind and a willingness to adapt—it will serve you better than anything in your pack.  You will want is a good El Camino phone app which will give you an idea of what to expect on each day and will give you booking links and ratings of albergues and other lodgings.  The app I used is called “Buen Camino”.  This is a paid app, but well worth the cost.

Keep your packing minimal. Carrying any unnecessary weight over long distances is in a word “stupid”.  Color me “stupid”.  I know from experience. If you find you need something you didn’t bring, you can usually find it along the way. A lightweight poncho for rain worked well for me, and while walking sticks are optional for the sure-footed, I found having mine reassuring. Many places were uneven, slippery and/or muddy, and there were many small streams to step across–I’m glad I had my poles.

Buen Camino!